Notes on Sweater

Working on a sweater from crystal palace yarns, in Dale of Norway Svale.
For Snert.
Of course there are mods, and I don't want to lose them, so I'm gonna put 'em here.

So:
For back,
Casting on 55 sts, work the edge in CC, st st for 2 rows, followed by 1 row reverse st st for turning ridge. Switch to MC and cont. in st st for 11 inches, placing markers at 6.5" on both edges of the work. Leave sts live on holder or needles.

For right front,
Cast on 27 st, work the edge in CC, st st for 2 rows, followed by 1 row reverse st st for turning ridge. Switch to MC and cont in st st for 9", ending with RS row. Work 22 st, then slip last 5 off onto holder. Decr one st on neck edge every WS row 5 times, 17 st remaining. Work until total length = 11". Leave sts live.

For left front,
Work as for right front, but make all decreases at start of WS rows, on neck edge. Leave st live.

Seam shoulders together with 3-needle bind off, leaving 11 st live on center back neck. Pick up and purl 17 st on each neck edge (10 live, 7 picked up between), with 11 center back st between them. Change to stockinette, and knit 5 rows. Purl 1 row for turning ridge.

If you are going to use a contrasting color, switch to it now. Using needles one size smaller than main size, knit 6 rows in stockinette. Bind off and seam to the inside of the collar, just covering the inside of the picked up edge.

Sleeves:
Knit both sleeves the same.
Seam sides with mattress stitch to armhole markers. With main needle size and main color, pick up and knit 44** stitches evenly along armhole edge. Using the magic loop, two circulars, or dpns, knit in stockinette without decreasing for 7.5 inches. **(If you are not knitting in the round, pick up a total of 46 stitches around the armhole and work back and forth starting with armpit stitches for 7.5 inches, ending with RS row.)
Regardless of method, change to contrasting color and continue in stockinette for 1 row. Purl 1 row for turning ridge at edge of cuff. Continue in stockinette for 1.5 inches. (End with WS row if working back and forth.) Purl 1 row for second turning ridge. Knit in stockinette for 2 more rows. Bind off.
Fold contrasting color block into sleeve at the first turning ridge, so that all of the CC is hidden except the turning ridge, and so if you peek into the sleeve you can see the smooth RS. Stabilize the two layers of fabric - with rustless pins, locking plastic stitch markers, or by tacking with a smooth piece of waste yarn - between the two turning ridges. Now flip the cuff, so that the CC side is showing and BOTH turning ridges are visible. Tack the two layers of cuff to the inside layer of the sleeve. Turn the whole sleeve inside out and neatly seam the CC edge to the inside of the sleeve with MC, being careful not to disturb the positioning between cuff layers. Leave tacking in for blocking.
Use crab stitch and G hook to finish inside edges of sweater. I used crab stitch for one side, and reverse crab stitch for the other.
Closures:
I made simple frogs and knitted them onto the sweater, but they can be bought or made beforehand, and sewn on.
For knitted-on frogs:
On the "button" side of the sweater, make three as follows in CC. Knit 15 rounds of three-stitch I-cord on size 5 (3.75mm) needles. On next round, start knitting I-cord to sweater - skip the crab stitch, and pick up stitches on stockinette. Attach I-cord with your favorite method, along neck below purl row, and at 2" intervals below neck. Attach neck closure for 14 rounds. Attach lower two closures for 9 rounds. Bind off.

On the loop side of the sweater, make three as follows in CC. Cast on two loops of yarn, and knit 10 rounds of TWO-stitch I-cord. Next round: pick up and knit through two loops at the cast-on end of the I-cord, then complete round with next two stitches. Knit one round. Next round, k 1, k2tog, k1, AT THE SAME TIME attaching I-cord to sweater with this row by your favorite method. Attach loop closures opposite button closures - neck closure for 13 rounds, and lower two closures for 7 rounds each. Bind off.

Tie knots with loose I-cord on button side. Weave in ends, anchoring knot and firming up the body of the closure in the process.

Finishing:

Weave in remaining ends. Seam hems and block in the order appropriate to your yarn choice.